Now this may be controversial...

What I am writing may well be controversial, yet controversial ones are normally the best topics.

Admittedly, I have been a victim, or more so a bearer for the flag embroidered with wine 'prescriptivism'. Or as my pre-pre-descessors like to call 'Wine Bollocks'.

With a few acquaintances with a very knowledgeable, experienced fellow wine lover and a bottle of Pinot Noir, the idea that not even a wine critic's notes should be taken seriously was one that interested us. As the tale goes: 'Tasting are written when the barrel is half empty and the writer is completely full'. From this, I mean not that wine critics are known to be drunks - of course not - but more that the notes should be used as guidelines. Just as much as mine should.

Raspberries or toast or lychees may well be prominent flavours in wine, they may well be the flavours the winemaker intended, but - without getting too heavy - taste is psychological. Taste is linked to memory.

My advice? When drinking wine, whether it be a Blossom Hill or a St Emillion, just take a moment to think what it actually tastes of. Shut your eyes if necessary. Remember when you were a kid and you ate strawberries and worms in the garden? Well if the Chianti or Rioja tastes like your memory of worms; say it tastes of worms!

A colleague once described a blind tasting of a South African Cabernet blend as 'a gay secret'. After one more sip, we all agreed. It made complete sense. What should be a stern, heavy wine was displaying a lot of strawberries and floral notes. Not only could we not stop laughing, but the sincerity of the daunting blind tastings were diminished.

I guess what I'm trying to say is don't hold back, feel free to say what you like about the wine, after all, if you like it, then it's a good wine. Regardless of it's status or ratings.

Yes, describing wine is what I do, but what I hope to achieve is a more open community to the experimentation of wine and the realisation that wine is so much more than the 'second on the list' job.

The Truth About Côte-Rôtie

I perhaps should have considered the wonders of Côte-Rôtie before using the title 'The Myth and Legend of...' on an article about Chardonnay (which you can see here). Darn. I'll think of another later.

In the meantime, let's explore Côte-Rôtie. Reading up on this northernmost region of Rhône, France, made my mouth water to say the least. Much like what a Côte-Rôtie would (like what I did there?) due to the high acidity of the dominant Syrah grape. Matched with high tannins, a full body and big blackberries, plums, pepper and leather when swished around your mouth. 

Côte-Rôtie directly translates into 'Roasted Slope', which gives the impression that it's a very hot climate. In fact, the slopes are more so roasted by light due to the 60° angle, south-facing slopes. Interestingly, Côte-Rôtie is one of the only appellation's in the world that allows producers, by law, to blend their big reds with a touch of Viognier - yes, a white grape. So what already is a quite robust, big wine to go with your steak, gains beautiful floral notes and an elegant texture. It doesn't quite soften the wine, just adds to the intensity of flavours. At which point you may consider to partner it with the likes of lamb or duck. 

Although many producers will add Viognier, whether it be 5% or 20%, the elitist of this area would argue that the skill is in creating a wine which incorporates the fragrant, floral elements without any additions.  As a result, the skills in doing so are directly translated in the price. 

According to 'legend', villages within Côte-Rôtie rivalled and contrasted in styles. Some making heavy, meaty wines with notes of  blackberries, tobacco and even bacon, whilst others making more elegant, fragrant and floral - but still highly tannic and full-bodied - wines. As a result, these sub-regions were given the names of Côte Brune and Côte Blonde, named after the two contrasting personalities of a local lord's daughters. Of which, you've guessed it, one was blonde and the other brunette. 

So, yes, price. At this point, I'd like to refer to the quote "you get what you pay for", partly as a safety quote, but more so because it is very much true. For a top producer who manages to bring out lavender notes without any added Viognier then you will pay around £38, for example 2006 Côte-Rôtie, Les Essartailles, Les Vins de Vienne, which is drinkable from today and for a few years to come.

Likewise, with one with just over 10% Viognier, you are looking at a similar price. The 2007 Côte-Rôtie, Domaine Remi et Robert Niero is very perfumed with violets yet still very rich with flavours of cassis and ripe dark fruit. 

You can buy both of these wines from Berry Bros & Rudd.

Imitations of this legendary wine have been done. Whether they succeeded is a different matter. If you don't want to fork out the best part of £40 for a bottle, experiment with some Syrahs from the new world. For example, this South African 2010/11 Porcupine Ridge Syrah Viognier from the producer Boekenhoutskloof, in Franschhoek (so glad I don't do a podcast) does a good job of gaining the jammy plum elements whilst still producing the spice and floral notes. And for £8.99 from Majestic, can you really argue? Or even the Chilean Polkura Syrah 2008 from Naked Wines, which is full of dark fruit, spices, vanilla, tobacco - you get a lot for each sip - even at £15.99 (£7.99 if member).

How does 'Côte-Rôtie Gets My Vôtie' sound for a title? No? Oh well.

With thanks to Berry Bros & Rudd, Naked Wines, Majestic Wine and the beautiful people of the Rhône Valley.

Wines fit for a Gold!

If you're like me, you may be still sat here trying to drastically think of a way in which you can participate in the London 2012 Olympics in another way than from your sofa. Well, as the closing ceremony has finished, that may not be possible - feel free to grab a broom and head up to Stratford - but for the rest of us, still sat here, we'll enjoy some wine instead.

With USA, China and the downright spectacular (I'm not biased) Team GB topping the medal table I thought it would be best-suited to suggest wines from each of these countries.

Let's begin.

USA

A reputable and well respected producer, J. Lohr (http://www.jlohr.com/) who makes superb quality wines ranging from £10 through to the £150 mark for their Cuvée series. My pick is their beautiful 'Fog's Reach Pinot Noir 2010'. Ageing the wine in French oak barrels for 8 months brings out some vanilla notes to complement the dominant strawberry flavours. A bit of cherry, chocolate and herby notes such as sage flirt around in your mouth. 

Once you've bought it from Great Western Wine for £26, try it slightly chilled with some game, lamb or 'meaty' fish - such as tuna. 

 China

Yes, China do produce wine. Is it better than the French? No way! Wait, hold on, yes, yes it is? In fact, China's He Lan Qing Xue’s Jia Bei Lan 2009 Cabernet Dry recently won the international trophy for 'Bordeaux Varietal Above £10', ahead of not only France, but the world, at the Decanter World Wine Awards. 

This wine boasts plenty of fruit, whilst being very smooth with even tannins. To be honest, it is everything you want from a Cabernet/Merlot (predominantly) blend, but with the added eyebrow-raising note that it's Chinese. Currently, it can only be bought from China, but don't worry, it will age well so do keep your eye out. Try it, be surprised and enjoy it.

Great Britain

With the make-you-proud surge of English wine coming out of our now even prouder nation, it has become increasingly difficult to select just one wine. Yet, I have done it.

My choice is Denbies Chalk Ridge Rose 2011 - of which the International Wine Challenge will agree, having awarded the previous vintage a gold status, this year's is possibly even better. The Chris Hoy or Ben Ainslie of wines then. 

Strawberries, pears and a touch of peppery spice make this a very easy (a bit too easy) drinking wine to be enjoyed on it's own or with salmon, salads and sunshine. 

Buy from Denbies' Online Shop for only £12 and raise a glass to Team GB's success.

Now, back to finding tickets for the Paralympics!

Credit to J. Lohr, Denbies, He Lan Qing Xue, Decanter, Victoria Moore, Great Western Wine and Team GB!

The Myth and Legend of Chardonnay

400 000 acres worth in more countries than any other grape puts Chardonnay in second place for most grown variety. It comes as no surprise when you think of how many people love, or at least have an opinion, on Chardonnay.

The customer's appeal of seeing 'Chardonnay' on a label when browsing the supermarket shelves has become somewhat of a gold mine for the bulk producers' marketing team. In fact, a common technique is to blend Chardonnay with your not-so-popular local variety. Chardonnay/Sémillon, Chardonnay/Colombard, Chardonnay/Chenin Blanc. Sound familiar? Now what's interesting, no matter how little the percentage of Chardonnay included, it can and nearly always will appear on the label. There may be just 10% of Chardonnay in with all that Viogner, yet on the label the most famous grape in the world will probably have more of your unjust attention.

On its own, I guarantee most people would suggest that oak, oak and a bit of oak are prominent when tasting. Although this can be true, this is only due to the (optional) oak-barrel ageing that the wine undergoes. Chardonnay is very versatile and varies in style depending on the climate.

Let's take a Chablis. It is, and always will be, 100% Chardonnay - despite what the wine-class-conscious might think. However, it as refined and elegant as a... well, Chablis. With crisp apple, pear and flinty, mineral flavours, a Chablis or other Chardonnays for that matter, can be more similar to a Pouilly-Fumé (Sauvignon Blanc). And why? Because it is the northernmost subregion of Burgundy, France and therefore a cool climate.

Heading into the hot Alexander Valley of California for our 'Chards', we start to notice the tropical pineapple, mango notes and the spice comes through with any added oak.

Either way, what will decipher the quality of wine is the amount of flavours that you can pluck off your tongue and how long such flavours last.

Here's two that I have selected, of alternative styles:

2010 Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons, Domaine Bernard Defaix

"A true Chablis" - light floral, citrus and herbaceous notes with a dry finish and good acidity. Perfect with white fish or salads with sharp vinaigrette.

www.enotria.co.uk/2010-chablis-1er-cru...

Clemens, Lazio, Malvasia del Lazio

An interesting unoaked Chardonnay/Malvasia del Lazio blend from the Frascati region of Italy which displays intensity of peaches and pineapple. The Chardonnay gives it a good body and in this refreshing example of Italian white, the fruits linger persistently.

I managed to enjoy this wine at a wine bar in Rome (lucky me) which, although not a common pairing, accompanied a 'Antipasti misto'.

Ever Heard Of Gewürztraminer?

Neither had I until just the other day. Gewürztraminer is not a very well known grape and what a shame that is.


A common misconception is that it can only be found in Germany, yet it's first appearance was in the Alto Adige region, Northern Italy and it soon moved over to the Alsace, France. What can be said though is that this variety thrives in cooler climates. Therefore, you would think that the wine would contain many characteristics of other cool climate wines - I'm thinking Chablis, with it's flinty, mineral, citrus flavours with a high, refreshing acidity. Yet Gewürztraminer has relatively low acidity, commonly has a much more floral nose and stone fruits such as peach are prominent on your palate.


Gewürz means 'spice' in German, so don't be surprised if you find some ginger notes in the wine too.


Try a New Zealand Gewürztraminer: Villa Maria's (who are celebrating their 50th year of wine making http://www.villamaria.co.nz/) Gewürztraminer Private Bin 2009 which can be bought from numerous places online. This is a very pronounced wine in smell, medium bodied, medium finish, but just exceptional with fish or even on its own. Very good value too.

Cottonworth Sparkles All The Way From Hampshire

With the recent surge of English wine, more and more people are believing and trusting the quality of wine on offer. English Wine Week saw an increase of 350% in English wine, most of which was, in fact, sparkling.

My choice at the moment is Cottonworth Sparkling Rosé, which you can buy either from their website here for £16, or from other external merchants but for a bit more cost.

The year is 2009 and it has all the characteristics expected in a sparkling wine yet has powerful flavours bursting through with every bubble. Cranberries, strawberries and raspberries play on your tongue, delicately pink in colour, incredibly refreshing. Try with white fish, pork or turkey.

And oh, did I mention it was from Hampshire? Shocking, I know.

http://www.cottonworth.co.uk/

An Introduction - 'Myself and My Dreams'

By name, I am Tom Boxall. By occupation, I am a waiter. I started my career at The Chesil Rectory, Winchester, (www.chesilrectory.co.uk) and it was here where my aspirations begun. Beginning with the restaurant environment, my ambitions soon moved into the wine industry where I found a familiar uncertainty or lack of confidence amongst customers and the general public when approaching a wine list.

As a result, my dream became more focused on clearing the air between what the customers read on the wine list and what the customers actually want out of their drink. I feel with trends such as the 'ale revivals' and the 'local produce boom', now is the perfect time to re-establish our love and comfort with wine. 

My dream orientates itself around, what I like to call, a 'Wine Café'. I intend to run a wine shop - fine wines at good value prices - which doubles up as a casual, relaxed bar. I will also feature excellent, diverse spirits with the overall intentions to make drinking an experience as much as eating has once again become.

Further to this, I shall both lower the pretentiousness of wine; yet also educate those with interest in wine, origins, production and tasting by creating regular wine workshops. These workshops will be accompanied with platters of complementing flavours to the wine either produced by local caterers or chefs.

I plan on building strong connections and partnerships with local restaurant and hospitality businesses, enabling me to promote/sell wines on their menu or to set up joint events. The promotions would work both ways, in that I would sell their wines and they could incorporate a "can be bought at..." tag onto selected bottles.

This Café shall be called Fine Wine Café.

I have many more ideas to come, all involving a passion for wine and good food. But for now, this is my blog, for which I intend on reviewing wines, bringing awareness to events and to act as a platform for my future!

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