The customer's appeal of seeing 'Chardonnay' on a label when browsing the supermarket shelves has become somewhat of a gold mine for the bulk producers' marketing team. In fact, a common technique is to blend Chardonnay with your not-so-popular local variety. Chardonnay/Sémillon, Chardonnay/Colombard, Chardonnay/Chenin Blanc. Sound familiar? Now what's interesting, no matter how little the percentage of Chardonnay included, it can and nearly always will appear on the label. There may be just 10% of Chardonnay in with all that Viogner, yet on the label the most famous grape in the world will probably have more of your unjust attention.
On its own, I guarantee most people would suggest that oak, oak and a bit of oak are prominent when tasting. Although this can be true, this is only due to the (optional) oak-barrel ageing that the wine undergoes. Chardonnay is very versatile and varies in style depending on the climate.
Let's take a Chablis. It is, and always will be, 100% Chardonnay - despite what the wine-class-conscious might think. However, it as refined and elegant as a... well, Chablis. With crisp apple, pear and flinty, mineral flavours, a Chablis or other Chardonnays for that matter, can be more similar to a Pouilly-Fumé (Sauvignon Blanc). And why? Because it is the northernmost subregion of Burgundy, France and therefore a cool climate.
Heading into the hot Alexander Valley of California for our 'Chards', we start to notice the tropical pineapple, mango notes and the spice comes through with any added oak.
Either way, what will decipher the quality of wine is the amount of flavours that you can pluck off your tongue and how long such flavours last.
Here's two that I have selected, of alternative styles:
2010 Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons, Domaine Bernard Defaix
"A true Chablis" - light floral, citrus and herbaceous notes with a dry finish and good acidity. Perfect with white fish or salads with sharp vinaigrette.
www.enotria.co.uk/2010-chablis-1er-cru...
Clemens, Lazio, Malvasia del Lazio
An interesting unoaked Chardonnay/Malvasia del Lazio blend from the Frascati region of Italy which displays intensity of peaches and pineapple. The Chardonnay gives it a good body and in this refreshing example of Italian white, the fruits linger persistently.
I managed to enjoy this wine at a wine bar in Rome (lucky me) which, although not a common pairing, accompanied a 'Antipasti misto'.
