I perhaps should have considered the wonders of Côte-Rôtie before using the title 'The Myth and Legend of...' on an article about Chardonnay (which you can see here). Darn. I'll think of another later.
In the meantime, let's explore Côte-Rôtie. Reading up on this northernmost region of Rhône, France, made my mouth water to say the least. Much like what a Côte-Rôtie would (like what I did there?) due to the high acidity of the dominant Syrah grape. Matched with high tannins, a full body and big blackberries, plums, pepper and leather when swished around your mouth.
Côte-Rôtie directly translates into 'Roasted Slope', which gives the impression that it's a very hot climate. In fact, the slopes are more so roasted by light due to the 60° angle, south-facing slopes. Interestingly, Côte-Rôtie is one of the only appellation's in the world that allows producers, by law, to blend their big reds with a touch of Viognier - yes, a white grape. So what already is a quite robust, big wine to go with your steak, gains beautiful floral notes and an elegant texture. It doesn't quite soften the wine, just adds to the intensity of flavours. At which point you may consider to partner it with the likes of lamb or duck.
Although many producers will add Viognier, whether it be 5% or 20%, the elitist of this area would argue that the skill is in creating a wine which incorporates the fragrant, floral elements without any additions. As a result, the skills in doing so are directly translated in the price.
According to 'legend', villages within Côte-Rôtie rivalled and contrasted in styles. Some making heavy, meaty wines with notes of blackberries, tobacco and even bacon, whilst others making more elegant, fragrant and floral - but still highly tannic and full-bodied - wines. As a result, these sub-regions were given the names of Côte Brune and Côte Blonde, named after the two contrasting personalities of a local lord's daughters. Of which, you've guessed it, one was blonde and the other brunette.
So, yes, price. At this point, I'd like to refer to the quote "you get what you pay for", partly as a safety quote, but more so because it is very much true. For a top producer who manages to bring out lavender notes without any added Viognier then you will pay around £38, for example 2006 Côte-Rôtie, Les Essartailles, Les Vins de Vienne, which is drinkable from today and for a few years to come.
Likewise, with one with just over 10% Viognier, you are looking at a similar price. The 2007 Côte-Rôtie, Domaine Remi et Robert Niero is very perfumed with violets yet still very rich with flavours of cassis and ripe dark fruit.
You can buy both of these wines from Berry Bros & Rudd.
Imitations of this legendary wine have been done. Whether they succeeded is a different matter. If you don't want to fork out the best part of £40 for a bottle, experiment with some Syrahs from the new world. For example, this South African 2010/11 Porcupine Ridge Syrah Viognier from the producer Boekenhoutskloof, in Franschhoek (so glad I don't do a podcast) does a good job of gaining the jammy plum elements whilst still producing the spice and floral notes. And for £8.99 from Majestic, can you really argue? Or even the Chilean Polkura Syrah 2008 from Naked Wines, which is full of dark fruit, spices, vanilla, tobacco - you get a lot for each sip - even at £15.99 (£7.99 if member).
How does 'Côte-Rôtie Gets My Vôtie' sound for a title? No? Oh well.
With thanks to Berry Bros & Rudd, Naked Wines, Majestic Wine and the beautiful people of the Rhône Valley.
